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	<title>Old Skool Phreaking</title>
	<description>All posts in Old Skool Phreaking</description>
	<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php</link>
	<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 13:58:25 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>15</ttl>
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		<title>Strange Noise on Skype</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43136-strange-noise-on-skype/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I have been ringing a few numbers on my exchange through Skype just out of curiosity and I noticed a few of the numbers make this weird tone with clicking. It only happens on Skype when I phone the number from a land-line it doesn't happen.<br />
<br />
I attached the sound clip so you can all listen.<br />
<br />
The Number in question is +441497740000<br />
<br />
Can anyone tell me what it is :)?<div id='attach_wrap' class='rounded clearfix'>
	<h4></h4>
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				<a href="http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=4290&s=20df6a3e0b9a1a18494679379fe60352" title=""><img src="http://www.binrev.com/forums/public/style_extra/mime_types/music.gif" alt="" /></a>
&nbsp;<a href="http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=4290&s=20df6a3e0b9a1a18494679379fe60352" title="">740000.mp3</a> <span class='desc'><strong>(360.86K)</strong></span>
<br /><span class="desc info">: 5</span>
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</div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 13:58:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43136-strange-noise-on-skype/</guid>
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		<title>Payphone error</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43132-payphone-error/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I live in a rural area with maybe 3000 people in the town. <br />
I went to a payphone at a gas station in town to play around with it.<br />
I dialed the MCI ANAC (1-800-444-4444)and it read me the ANI. <br />
I then called the number I received not expecting anything to happen. <br />
The payphone started to ring, I was like wow this is pretty cool. <br />
I was hoping to be able to talk once I pick up handset on the payphone but I keep getting this error<br />
"Error 48, Error 48, Error 48, (Beeep)" and I get disconnected immediately. <br />
I was wondering if anyone knows anything about the error or anything.<br />
Is it a misconfiguration? Also do a lot of payphones allow dialing in? <br />
I don't know what kind of payphone it is.... COCUT? or whatever else there is.<br />
I plan on reading some stuff on what a COCUT is and how to tell what type of payphone it is and why, just haven't got around to it yet.<br />
<br />
I just started to venture in playing around with things in telephony, so I'm clueless.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 06:02:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43132-payphone-error/</guid>
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		<title>Strange number</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43130-strange-number/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[First off, this is my first post to BinRev. w00t.<br />
Secondly, I apologize if you uber-1337 ph0n3 h4x0rs out there know immediately  what this is, where it's found, and how to control it using a GameBoy Advance and 2400 Baud Modem. But whatever.<br />
Anyway, I was scanning a while back, and found this number. And the more I poked around, the weirder it got...<br />
The number is (530) 950-0000<br />
I called it and almost instantly got a voice saying "Your number please?" I don't know if they mean the number I'm calling from, the number I'm calling, a password of some kind, or something else entirely. (This is a real person, not a recording, by the way).<br />
So I got my S.E on, and dialed the number the next day, and got nowhere. They kept wanting to transfer me to a supervisor whenever I asked a question. I didn't let them at first, but eventually said OK. They connected me, and I was talking to the 'supervisor', from whom I learned two interesting things -<br />
1) They aren't really a 'supervisor'. In fact, they're just a normal AT&T (?) operator. The '0' operator. I could have just dialed them from a payphone.<br />
2) When they connect me to the supervisor, it also blocks ANI. Or obfuscates it. The supervisor told me that it was displaying a series of question marks on their screen as ANI.<br />
<br />
It's worth mentioning that I did all my experiments from a payphone...and that calls from the payphone to the number, or really anywhere in the 950 exchange, are free. <br />
<br />
Thoughts?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 Mar 2010 02:11:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43130-strange-number/</guid>
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		<title>I need some information on this guy:</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43101-i-need-some-information-on-this-guy/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Thread Closed-<br />
<br />
Information Obtained-]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:48:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43101-i-need-some-information-on-this-guy/</guid>
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		<title>Verizon, Chile, and you</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43100-verizon-chile-and-you/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This is why MCI is 300% awesome<br />
<a href='http://thoughtphreaker.omghax.ca/audio/mci_chile.wav' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://thoughtphreaker.omghax.ca/audio/mci_chile.wav</a><br />
<a href='http://newscenter.verizon.com/press-releases/verizon/2010/verizon-waives-charges-for-1.html' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://newscenter.verizon.com/press-releases/verizon/2010/verizon-waives-charges-for-1.html</a>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 09:38:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43100-verizon-chile-and-you/</guid>
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		<title>CID shows name but no number</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43067-cid-shows-name-but-no-number/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[i   just had someone asking about a call that they got where the CID showed the callers name but no number came up... this stumped me, because name info is pulled from a CNA database from the callers phone number... anyone have any idea how or why this happened? <br />
<br />
<br />
its on a comcast line... <br />
<br />
<a href='http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AiJ40fnBiSf7blBYtZdHidE95XNG;_ylv=3?qid=20100225155040AAWVfqm' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AiJ40fnBiSf7blBYtZdHidE95XNG;_ylv=3?qid=20100225155040AAWVfqm</a>
<br />
<br />
i had a short online conversation with the person after posting my answer to there question, where they sent me a pic of the CID screen showing a name, but no CID info... <br />
<br />
only thing that i could come up with is the CID data had an error in the stream, and all of the info was not properly sent...]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2010 03:54:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43067-cid-shows-name-but-no-number/</guid>
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		<title>A Phreakbot web crawler? To find pbx exchanges</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43061-a-phreakbot-web-crawler-to-find-pbx-exchanges/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I just had this light bulb go off, what about a web crawler bot that crawls the web looking either on the same domain or the same page for phone numbers in the same exchange, something that I do manually as I browse the web for non-phreaking purposes. For example, you're looking at a companies contact page and see their different offices are in the same exchange.<br />
<br />
I guess the devil would be in the details as to how to actually go about the crawling, eg where to start? Perhaps have two different bots, one for crawling google for inurl:contact etc... and one that just starts on random pages, or perhaps at one of those business directories like zoominfo. Or dmoz. Or the yahoo directory (considering it's a paid-only directory now, it would likely lead to more businesses). Or as a start, to test the waters so to speak, just point it at specific preselected domains.<br />
<br />
Also it seems like certain industries always use toll-free numbers which negates all of this (eg I've never found blocks of toll-free numbers from the same company together through wardialing. There's 800-alltel1 800-alltel2 etc... but I already knew those).<br />
<br />
Obviously searching for 'areacode-001' 'areacode-002' etc... would be a shortcut but it wouldn't find the numbers listed as areacode001 and wouldn't find every instance of areacode.001 but would find some. <br />
<br />
Anyone ever thought about this?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:55:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43061-a-phreakbot-web-crawler-to-find-pbx-exchanges/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>EXchange Names Still Around</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43052-exchange-names-still-around/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I've heard mention of this before, and I randomly remembered about it just now.  Check out the sign of this liquor store near Yankee Stadium.<br />
<a href='http://maps.google.com/maps?layer=c&cbll=40.827544,-73.925631&panoid=QTv6yiFKQAGII06PLtsG2Q&cbp=12,223.64,,1,-3.64&ved=0CBsQ2wU&ei=6aGAS7yjHomMygSdpPTLCA&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=W+Center+St,+Meadville,+Crawford,+Pennsylvania+16335&ll=41.639304,-80.152168&spn=0,359.977276&z=16' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://maps.google.com/maps?layer=c&cbll=40.827544,-73.925631&panoid=QTv6yiFKQAGII06PLtsG2Q&
cbp=12,223.64,,1,-3.64&ved=0CBsQ2wU&ei=6aGAS7yjHomMygSdpPTLCA&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=W+Center+St,
+Meadville,+Crawford,+Pennsylvania+16335&ll=41.639304,-80.152168&spn=0,359.977276&z=16</a><br />

<br />
I also saw an abbreviated, 5-digit phone number on a building in La Crosse, Wisconsin last year.  I can only assume the town was served by a step.  I'm still trying to find that one on Google Street View.<br />
<br />
Post more if you know of them.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 21 Feb 2010 03:09:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43052-exchange-names-still-around/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>gooogle installing 1 gigabit  FTTH network</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43023-gooogle-installing-1-gigabit-ftth-network/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[not sure what section this belongs in.. and i have not seen anyone mention it on here yet... reason i put in in the OSP section is because traditionally the telco's were the service providers... <br />
<br />
<a href='http://www.lightwaveonline.com/fttx/news/Google-announces-experimental-FTTH-network-plans-84040427.html?cmpid=EnlDirectFebruary112010' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.lightwaveonline.com/fttx/news/Google-announces-experimental-FTTH-network-plans-84040427.
html?cmpid=EnlDirectFebruary112010</a><br />
<br />
<p class='citation'>Quote</p><div class="blockquote"><div class='quote'>FEBRUARY 10, 2010 By Stephen Hardy -- Google has announced plans to build and test open access fiber-to-the-home (FTTH) networks in “a small number” of trial locations across the United States. The company has issued an RFI seeking communities interested in participating in the trials.<br />
<br />
Google says the trials will feature gigabit FTTH broadband connections. “We plan to offer service at a competitive price to at least 50,000 and potentially up to 500,000 people,” the company says on its website.<br />
<br />
The trials will focus on at least three areas:<br />
<br />
    * next-generation applications<br />
    * new FTTH deployment techniques<br />
    * “openness and choice” via the open access business model</div></div>]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Feb 2010 16:06:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43023-gooogle-installing-1-gigabit-ftth-network/</guid>
	</item>
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		<title>old school phreaking box plans</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43013-old-school-phreaking-box-plans/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[all of these plans are written by other peoples and are mostly out of date today, but they just might be helpful so im posting them anyway.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Black Box Plans                                 by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Introduction:<br />
------------<br />
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20<br />
Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings<br />
the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts.<br />
The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10,<br />
they start billing the person who called you.<br />
<br />
Function:<br />
--------<br />
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts,<br />
so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled<br />
into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller.<br />
However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious<br />
and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds.<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
---------<br />
1 1.8K 1/2 Watt Resistor<br />
1 1.5V LED<br />
1 SPST Switch<br />
<br />
Procedure:<br />
---------<br />
(1) Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and<br />
lifting the case off.<br />
(2) There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working<br />
with the Red Wire.<br />
(3) Connect the following in parallel:<br />
     A. The Resistor and LED.<br />
     B. The SPST Switch.<br />
In other words, you should end up with this:<br />
              (Red Wire)<br />
           !---/&#092;/&#092;/&#092;--O--!<br />
(Line)-----!              !-----(Phone)<br />
           !-----_/_------!<br />
          /&#092;/&#092;/&#092; = Resistor<br />
          O      = LED<br />
          _/_    = SPST<br />
<br />
Use:<br />
---<br />
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off,<br />
your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings,<br />
the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage<br />
is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box<br />
is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls.<br />
Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.<br />
<br />
                                      ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
p.s. Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this <br />
may or may not work in your area. If you live in bumfuck Kentucky, <br />
then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...) ----Ex.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox  rev. 4.14          by -= Exodus =-<br />
   <br />
             -------------Introduction-------------<br />
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at<br />
least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching<br />
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build<br />
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color<br />
of ours. <br />
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a <br />
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house.  To <br />
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.<br />
<br />
             ---------Construction and Use---------<br />
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of<br />
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,<br />
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:<br />
the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary<br />
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and<br />
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There<br />
should be a grey jack with four wires  (red, green, yellow & black)<br />
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.<br />
To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow<br />
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so<br />
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your<br />
telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular<br />
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses<br />
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight,<br />
and does not require the destruction of a phone.<br />
<br />
             ------------Beige Box Uses------------<br />
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,<br />
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be<br />
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.<br />
remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell<br />
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver<br />
(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also).<br />
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.<br />
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately<br />
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked,<br />
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.<br />
However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have<br />
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to<br />
terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"<br />
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if<br />
not labeled, usually on the right).<br />
<br />
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to<br />
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip<br />
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.<br />
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.<br />
<br />
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator<br />
clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure<br />
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.<br />
Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use<br />
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:<br />
<br />
       &gt; Eavesdropping<br />
       &gt; Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends<br />
       &gt; Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)<br />
       &gt; Phucking people over<br />
       &gt; Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself<br />
       &gt; Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught<br />
       &gt; Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.<br />
<br />
Eavesdropping<br />
-------------<br />
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This<br />
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore<br />
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,<br />
it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone<br />
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the<br />
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete<br />
their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you<br />
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who<br />
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.<br />
<br />
Dialing Long Distance<br />
---------------------<br />
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before<br />
the NPA.<br />
<br />
Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing<br />
------------------------------------------<br />
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there.<br />
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception<br />
and are more dificult to come by.<br />
<br />
Phucking People Over<br />
--------------------<br />
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics<br />
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will<br />
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition,<br />
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your<br />
phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.<br />
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause<br />
of the problem. <br />
Bothering the Operator<br />
----------------------<br />
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.<br />
Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced<br />
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section,<br />
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?<br />
He he he...<br />
<br />
Blue Boxing<br />
-----------<br />
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice<br />
feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once<br />
again, not traced to your line...<br />
<br />
---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----<br />
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,<br />
and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:<br />
<br />
            &gt; Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,<br />
            &gt; Use more than one output device<br />
            &gt; Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real<br />
              name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)<br />
            &gt; In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output<br />
              device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over<br />
              the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is<br />
              opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and<br />
              you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded<br />
              on your teritory.<br />
<br />
Now, imagine the possibilities:  a $2000 dollar phone bill for <br />
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the <br />
operator at no risk to you!  Think of it as walking into an <br />
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
                                     Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Aqua Box Plans                                            by Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreadded F.B.I. 'Lock In Trace.'<br />
For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace.<br />
This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it.<br />
This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic<br />
electronics knowledge can construct and use it.<br />
<br />
The Lock In Trace<br />
------------------<br />
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone<br />
users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress.<br />
For those of you who are not familiar with the conecpt of 'locking in',<br />
then here's a brief desciption. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation,<br />
sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there,<br />
they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections<br />
are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.<br />
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are<br />
calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line<br />
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same<br />
voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage<br />
is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you<br />
even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand<br />
better about that, for call waiting intersepts the electricity and makes<br />
a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter<br />
of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver,then it see-saws<br />
the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line<br />
it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up.<br />
If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring.<br />
That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when<br />
electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity<br />
causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.)<br />
So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the<br />
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time<br />
someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease<br />
a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting<br />
about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all<br />
be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the<br />
voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using<br />
the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite<br />
faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You<br />
have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can<br />
not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out<br />
the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain<br />
the exact voltage nessecary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine<br />
this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go<br />
pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a <br />
phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you<br />
can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some<br />
modifications have to be done.<br />
<br />
Materials<br />
----------<br />
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type<br />
connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug<br />
into a light bulb.<br />
One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your<br />
own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainor must be built in (I.E.<br />
The central box)<br />
Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to<br />
plug the aqua box into)<br />
Some creativity and easy work.<br />
<br />
*Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so<br />
don't go out and buy a new phone for it!<br />
<br />
Procedure<br />
---------<br />
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could<br />
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having<br />
that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into<br />
the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock<br />
you in with.<br />
1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have<br />
only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the<br />
electrical appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter<br />
while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the<br />
top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside.<br />
Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...)<br />
then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Lo and Behold,<br />
you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires<br />
connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance.<br />
So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until<br />
they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the<br />
jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with<br />
insultation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power<br />
is being drained from the line.<br />
2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the<br />
wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other.<br />
If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the<br />
phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After<br />
you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with<br />
the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box<br />
or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it.<br />
That box is your ticket out of this.<br />
3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty<br />
flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at<br />
it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one<br />
big box, with some kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be<br />
the power connector.  In order to use it, just keep this box handy.<br />
Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the<br />
voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks,<br />
unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.<br />
<br />
Use<br />
----<br />
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this<br />
unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't<br />
panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked<br />
to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source...<br />
The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light<br />
bulb should drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at<br />
the same time.<br />
<br />
Happy boxing and stay free!               ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The Infamous Blotto Box!!                       by The Jolly Roger<br />
      <br />
        (I bet that NOONE has the balls to build this one!)<br />
<br />
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent<br />
phreakers around America has finally been conceived!<br />
Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box,<br />
here is a brief summery of a legend.<br />
<br />
--*-=&gt; The Blotto Box &lt;=-*--<br />
<br />
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first<br />
made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that<br />
the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage<br />
Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame,<br />
the Blotto Box is finally available to the public.<br />
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed<br />
in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and<br />
should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse<br />
machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in<br />
high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY!<br />
All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box<br />
and it's function.<br />
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its<br />
knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone<br />
lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area<br />
code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for<br />
that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will<br />
not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical<br />
impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will<br />
ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the<br />
box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here.<br />
We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people<br />
close to the box may be electricuted if they pick up the phone.<br />
But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator.<br />
If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take<br />
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a<br />
superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is<br />
not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is<br />
electricity to continue with.<br />
OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you<br />
to do with it...<br />
<br />
-*-=&gt;Blotto Functions/Installin'&lt;=-*-<br />
<br />
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The<br />
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box.<br />
Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt<br />
to construct this box.<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
  - A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a <br />
    stadium or some such place.<br />
  - 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a<br />
    phone line jack.<br />
  - A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.<br />
  - A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that<br />
    you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch<br />
    boards and would be a more effective line to start with.<br />
    or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area<br />
    code!<br />
  - A soldering iron and much solder.<br />
  - A remote control or long wooden pole.<br />
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes,<br />
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of<br />
the other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make<br />
sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole,<br />
not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything<br />
convienent, if you are two feeble that fuck don't try this.<br />
Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of<br />
green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing<br />
off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the<br />
voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord<br />
and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord<br />
into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off.<br />
Open it up and match the red and green wires with<br />
the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on<br />
and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter.<br />
Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those<br />
lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all<br />
of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup<br />
of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long<br />
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.<br />
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file<br />
first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become<br />
null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your<br />
damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating<br />
so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself.<br />
The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your<br />
area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the<br />
phone lines around you in every direction.<br />
<br />
Have a nice day!<br />
<br />
--*-=&gt;The Blotto Box: Aftermath&lt;=-*--<br />
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly<br />
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).<br />
<br />
                                          ---------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Brown Box Plans                                 by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does <br />
is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party<br />
line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems<br />
with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are<br />
one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other<br />
person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some <br />
amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?].<br />
I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will <br />
make up for any minor volume loss.<br />
<br />
Here is the diagram:<br />
---------------------------------------<br />
KEY:___________________________________<br />
    |  PART               | SYMBOL    |<br />
    |---------------------------------|<br />
    | BLACK WIRE          |   *       |<br />
    | YELLOW WIRE         |   =       |<br />
    | RED WIRE            |   +       |<br />
    | GREEN WIRE          |   -       |<br />
    | SPDT SWITCH         |  _/_      |<br />
    |                        _/_      |<br />
    | VERTICAL WIRE       |   |       |<br />
    | HORIZONTAL WIRE     |   _       |<br />
    -----------------------------------<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    ==_/_-    +<br />
          *******_/_++++++<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |_____PHONE____|<br />
<br />
                                ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Clear Box Plans                                 by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be<br />
used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on<br />
"PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones<br />
that don't require payment until after the connection is established.<br />
You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then<br />
insert your money after the person answers.<br />
If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on<br />
the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece.<br />
(obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or<br />
other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio<br />
Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a<br />
telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would be<br />
hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except<br />
that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a<br />
microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party<br />
that is being called answers, the caller could speak through the little<br />
microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out<br />
the induction coil, and into the back of the receiver where<br />
it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other <br />
partywould be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus<br />
'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will<br />
not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait<br />
forever for the coins to be put in.<br />
The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the<br />
fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common.<br />
Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF,<br />
dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment,<br />
(for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line.<br />
Usually a payphone line is different, but this is a regular phone line<br />
and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company.<br />
<br />
                              ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Green Box Plans                                 by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain <br />
fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxers mouths, thus the <br />
green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as<br />
COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND RINGBACK. These are the tones that<br />
ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the CO when appropriate.<br />
Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at the fortress station but<br />
must be used by the CALLED party.<br />
<br />
Here are the tones:<br />
COIN COLLECT     700+1100hz<br />
COIN RETURN      1100+1700hz<br />
RINGBACK         700+1700hz<br />
<br />
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator realease<br />
signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO.<br />
This can be done by sending 900hz + 1500hz or a single 2600 wink (90 ms.)<br />
Also do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the<br />
3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF <br />
tones for collecting and returning coins reach the CO, they are <br />
converted into an appropriate DC pulse (-130 volts for return and<br />
+130 for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the <br />
fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins.<br />
The alledged "T-network" takes advantage of this information.<br />
When a pulse for coin collect (+130 VDC) is sent down the line,<br />
it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually the yellow or black wire.<br />
Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent<br />
the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial<br />
period is almost up, make sure that the black and yellow wires are<br />
severed, then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second<br />
pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the phone, and if all goes well,<br />
it should be "JACKPOT" time.<br />
                               ---------Exodus----------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Blue Box                               courtesy of the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
To quote Karl Marx, blue boxing has always been the most noble form of<br />
phreaking. As opposed to such things as using an MCI code to make a free<br />
fone call, which is merely mindless pseudo-phreaking, blue boxing<br />
is actual interaction with the Bell System toll network.<br />
It is likewise advisable to be more cautious when blue boxing, but the<br />
careful phreak will not be caught, regardless of what type of switching<br />
system he is under.<br />
In this part, I will explain how and why blue boxing works, as well as<br />
where. In later parts, I will give more practical information for blue<br />
boxing and routing information. To begin with, blue boxing is simply<br />
communicating with trunks. Trunks must not be confused with subscriber<br />
lines (or "customer loops") which are standard telefone lines. Trunks are<br />
those lines that connect central offices. Now, when trunks are not in<br />
use (i.e., idle or "on-hook" state) they have 2600Hz applied to them. If<br />
they are two-way trunks, there is 2600Hz in both directions. When a trunk<br />
IS in use (busy or "off-hook" state), the 2600Hz is removed from the side<br />
that is off-hook. The 2600Hz is therefore known as a supervisory<br />
signal, because it indicates the status of a trunk; on hook (tone) or<br />
off-hook (no tone). Note also that 2600Hz denoted SF (single frequency)<br />
signalling and is "in-band." This is very important. "In-band" means that<br />
is within the band of frequencies that may be transmitted over normal<br />
telefone lines. Other SF signals, such as 3700Hz are used also. However,<br />
they cannot be carried over the telefone network normally (they are<br />
"out-of-band" and are therefore not able to be taken advantage of as<br />
2600Hz is. Back to trunks. Let's take a hypothetical phone call. You pick<br />
up your fone and dial 1+806-258-1234 (your good friend in Amarillo, Texas).<br />
For ease, we'll assume that you are on #5 Crossbar switching and not in the<br />
806 area. Your central office (CO) would recognize that 806 is a foreign<br />
NPA, so it would route the call to the toll centre that serves you.<br />
[For the sake of accuracy here, and for the more experienced readers,<br />
note that the CO in question is a class 5 with LAMA that uses out-of-band<br />
SF supervisory signalling]. Depending on where you are in the country,<br />
the call would leave your toll centre (on more trunks) to another toll<br />
centre, or office of higher "rank". Then it would be routed to central<br />
office 806-258 eventually and the call would be completed.<br />
<br />
            Illustration<br />
A---CO1-------TC1------TC2----CO2----B<br />
<br />
A.... you<br />
CO1=your central office<br />
TC1.. your toll office.<br />
TC2.. toll office in Amarillo.<br />
CO2.. 806-258 central office.<br />
B.... your friend (806-258-1234)<br />
<br />
In this situation it would be realistic to say that CO2 uses SF<br />
in-band (2600Hz) signalling, while all the others use out-of-band signal-<br />
ling (3700Hz). If you don't understand this, don't worry. I am pointing<br />
this out merely for the sake of accuracy. The point is that while you<br />
are connected to 806-258-1234, all those trunks from YOUR central office<br />
(CO1) to the 806-258 central office (CO2) do *NOT* have 2600Hz on them,<br />
indicating to the Bell equipment that a call is in progress and the trunks<br />
are in use.<br />
Now let's say you're tired of talking to your friend in Amarillo, so you<br />
send a 2600Hz down the line. This tone travels down the line to your<br />
friend's central office (CO2) where it is detected. However, that CO thinks<br />
that the 2600Hz is originating from Bell equipment, indicating to it<br />
that you've hung up, and thus the trunks are once again idle (with 2600Hz<br />
present on them). But actually, you have not hung up, you have fooled the<br />
equipment atyour friend's CO into thinking you have. Thus,it disconnects<br />
him and resets the equipment to prepare for the next call. All this happens<br />
very quickly (300-800ms for step-by-step equipment and 150-400ms for other<br />
equipment). When you stop sending 2600Hz (after about a second), the<br />
equipment thinks that another call is coming towards<br />
--&gt; on hook, no tone --&gt;off hook.<br />
Now that you've stopped sending 2600Hz, several things happen:<br />
<br />
1) A trunk is seized.<br />
2) A "wink" is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end indicating that<br />
the CALLED end (trunk) is not ready to receive digits yet.<br />
3) A register is found and attached to the CALLED end of the trunk within<br />
about two seconds (max).<br />
4) A start-dial signal is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end<br />
indicating that the CALLED end is ready to receive digits.<br />
Now, all of this is pretty much transparent to the blue boxer. All he<br />
really hears when these four things happen is a &lt;beep&gt;&lt;kerchunk&gt;. So,<br />
seizure of a trunk would go something like this:<br />
<br />
1&gt; Send a 2600Hz<br />
2&gt; Terminate 2600Hz after 1-2 secs.<br />
3&gt; [beep][kerchunk]<br />
<br />
Once this happens, you are connected to a tandem that is ready to obey your<br />
every command. The next step is to send signalling information in order to<br />
place your call. For this you must simulate the signalling used by<br />
operators and automatic toll-dialing equipment for use on trunks. There are<br />
mainly two systems, DP and MF. However, DP went out with the dinosaurs, so<br />
I'll only discuss MF signalling. MF (multi-frequency) signalling is the<br />
signalling used by the majority of the inter- and intra-lata network. It is<br />
also used in international dialing known as the CCITT no.5 system.<br />
MF signals consist of 7 frequecies, beginning with 700Hz and separated by<br />
200Hz. A different set of two of the 7 frequencies represent the digits 0<br />
thru 9, plus an additional 5 special keys. The frequencies and uses are as<br />
follows:<br />
<br />
Frequencies (Hz)  Domestic    Int'l<br />
-------------------------------------<br />
 700+900             1          1<br />
 700+1100            2          2<br />
 900+1100            3          3<br />
 700+1300            4          4<br />
 900+1300            5          5<br />
1100+1300            6          6<br />
 700+1500            7          7<br />
 900+1500            8          8<br />
1100+1500            9          9<br />
1300+1500            0          0<br />
 700+1700           ST3p       Code 1<br />
 900+1700           STp        Code 1<br />
1100+1700           KP         KP1<br />
1300+1700           ST2p       KP2<br />
1500+1700           ST         ST<br />
 The timing of all the MF signals is a nominal 60ms, except for KP, which<br />
should have a duration of 100ms. There should also be a 60ms silent period<br />
between digits. This is very flexible however, and most Bell equipment will<br />
accept outrageous timings. In addition to the standard uses<br />
listed above, MF pulsing also has expanded usages known as "expanded<br />
inband signalling" that include such things as coin collect, coin return,<br />
ringback, operator attached, and operator attached, and operator<br />
released. KP2, code 11, and code 12 and the ST_ps (STart "primes" all have<br />
special uses which will be mentioned only briefly here.<br />
To complete a call using a blue box once seizure of a trunk has been<br />
accomplished by sending 2600Hz and pausing for the &lt;beep&gt;&lt;kerchunk&gt;, one<br />
must first send a KP. This readies the register for the digits that follow.<br />
For a standard domestic call, the KP would be followed by either 7 digits<br />
(if the call were in the same NPA as the seized trunk) or 10 digits (if the<br />
call were not in the same NPA as the seized trunk). [Exactly like dialing<br />
normal fone call]. Following either the KP and 7 or 10 digits, a STart is<br />
sent to signify that no more digits follow. Example of a complete call:<br />
<br />
1&gt; Dial 1-806-258-1234<br />
2&gt; wait for a call-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)<br />
3&gt; Send 2600Hz for about 1 second.<br />
4&gt; Wait for about ll-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)<br />
5&gt; Send KP+305+994+9966+ST<br />
The call will then connect if everything was done properly. Note that if a<br />
call to an 806 number were being placed in the same situation, the are code<br />
would be omitted and only KP + seven digits + ST would be sent.<br />
Code 11 and code 12 are used in international calling to request<br />
certain types of operators. KP2 is used in international calling to route a<br />
call other than by way of the normal route, whether for economic or<br />
equipment reasons. STp, ST2p, and ST3p (prime, two prime, and three prime)<br />
are used in TSPS signalling to indicate calling type of call (such as<br />
coin-direct dialing.<br />
<br />
It all started here...................  Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Pearl Box Plans                                  by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
The Pearl Box:Definition - This is a box that may substitute for many boxes<br />
which produce tones in hertz. The Pearl Box when operated correctly can<br />
produce tones from 1-9999hz. As you can see, 2600, 1633, 1336 and other<br />
crucial tones are obviously in its sound spectrum.<br />
<br />
Materials you will need in order to build The Pearl Box:<br />
========================================================<br />
C1, C2:.5mf or .5uf ceramic disk<br />
       capacitors<br />
Q1.....NPN transistor (2N2222 works<br />
       best)<br />
S1.....Normally open momentary SPST<br />
       switch<br />
S2.....SPST toggle switch<br />
B1.....Standard 9-Volt battery<br />
R1.....Single turn, 50k potentiometer<br />
R2.....  "     "    100k potentiometer<br />
R3.....  "     "    500k potentiometer<br />
R4.....  "     "    1meg potentiometer<br />
SPKR...Standard 8-ohm speaker<br />
T1.....Mini transformer (8-ohm works<br />
       best)<br />
Misc...Wire, solder, soldering iron, PC<br />
       board or perfboard, box to<br />
       contain the completed unit,<br />
       battery clip<br />
<br />
Instructions for building Pearl Box:<br />
======================================<br />
Since the instruction are EXTREMELY difficult to explain in words, you will<br />
be given a schematic instead. It will be quite difficult to follow but try<br />
it any way. <br />
<br />
(Schematic for The Pearl Box)<br />
+---+------------+---------+<br />
    !            !          &#092;<br />
    C1            C2          &#092;<br />
    !             !            +<br />
    +             +       -----+T1<br />
    !&#092;            +------------+-+<br />
    !  b  c-------!              +<br />
    !   Q1                   !   +-S1-<br />
    !     e-----S2---+       !    SPKR<br />
    !                !       !   +----<br />
    !               B1       !<br />
    !                !       !<br />
    !                +-------+<br />
    !R1   R2   R3   R4!<br />
    /&#092;/&#092; /&#092;/&#092; /&#092;/&#092; /&#092;/&#092;<br />
      +--+ +--+ +--+<br />
Now that you are probably thoroughly confused, let me explain a few<br />
minor details. The potentiometer area is rigged so that the left pole is<br />
connected to the center pole of the potentiometer next to it.<br />
The middle terminal of T1 is connected to the piece of wire that runs down<br />
to the end of the battery.<br />
<br />
Correct operation of The Pearl Box:<br />
===================================<br />
You may want to get some dry-transfer decals at Radio Shack to make this<br />
job a lot easier. Also, some knobs for the tops of the potentiometers<br />
may be useful too. Use the decals to calibrate the knobs. R1 is the knob<br />
for the ones place, R2 is for the tens place, R3 if for the hundreds<br />
place and R4 is for the thousands place. S1 is for producing the all the<br />
tones and S2 is for power. <br />
Step 1: Turn on the power and adjust the knobs for the desired tone.<br />
       (Example: For 2600 hz-<br />
         R1=0:R2=0:R3=6:R4=2)<br />
Step 2: Hit the pushbutton switch and VIOLA! You have the tone. If <br />
you don't have a tone recheck all connections and schematic. <br />
<br />
                             Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Red Box Plans                                   by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Red boxing is simulating the tones produced by public payphones when you<br />
drop your money in. The tones are beeps of 2200 Hz + 1700 Hz<br />
Nickle = 1 beep for 66 milliseconds.<br />
Dime = 2 beeps, each 66 milliseconds with a 66 millisecond pause between<br />
beeps.<br />
Quarter = 5 beeps, each 33 milliseconds with a 33 millisecond<br />
pause between beeps.<br />
<br />
There are two commonly used methods being used by Phreaks to make free calls.<br />
1. An electronic hand-held device that is made from a pair of Wien-bridge<br />
oscillators with the timing controlled by 555 timing chips.<br />
2. A tape recording of the tones produced by a home computer. One of<br />
the best computers to use would be an Atari ST. It is one of the easier<br />
computers to use because the red box tones can be produced in basic with only<br />
about 5 statments.<br />
<br />
                            -= Exodus =-<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Scarlet Box Plans                               by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
   The purpose of a Scarlet box is to create a very bad conection,<br />
it can be used to crash a BBS or just make life miserable for those you<br />
seek to avenge.<br />
Materials: 2 alligator clips, 3 inch wire, or a resister<br />
(plain wire will create greatest amount of static)<br />
(Resister will decrease the amount of static in porportion to <br />
the resister you are using)<br />
<br />
Step (1): Find the phone box at your victims house, and pop the cover off.<br />
Step (2): Find the two prongs that the phone line you wish to box are<br />
connected to.<br />
Step (3): Hook your alligator clips to your (wire/resister).<br />
Step (4): Find the lower middle prong and take off all wires connected to<br />
it, i think this disables the ground and call waiting and shit like that.<br />
Step (5): Now take one of the alligator clips and attach it to the upper<br />
most prong, and take the other and attach it to the lower middle prong.<br />
Step (6): Now put the cover back on the box and take off!!<br />
<br />
   **       ######## **<br />
   **       # #### #      **<br />
            ########       /<br />
            # #### #      /<br />
            ########     /<br />
                        /<br />
                       /<br />
                      /<br />
                     /<br />
                    /<br />
                   /<br />
                  /<br />
               **/<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
<br />
(**)= prongs <br />
 **<br />
(/) = (wire/resister)<br />
(##)= some phone bullshit<br />
<br />
                                 -= Exodus =-<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Silver Box Plans                                 by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Introduction:<br />
------------<br />
     First a bit of Phone Trivia. A standard telephone keypad has 12 buttons.<br />
These buttons, when pushed, produce a combination of two tones. These tones<br />
represent the row and column of the button you are pushing.<br />
            1   1   1<br />
            2   3   4<br />
            0   3   7<br />
            9   6   7<br />
     697   (1) (2) (3)<br />
     770   (4) (5) (6)<br />
     851   (7) (8) (9)<br />
     941   (*) (0) (#)<br />
So (1) produces a tone of 697+1209, (2) produces a tone of 697+1336, etc.<br />
<br />
Function:<br />
--------<br />
     What the Silver Box does is just creates another column of buttons,<br />
with the new tone of 1633. These buttons are called A, B, C, and D.<br />
<br />
Usefulness:<br />
----------<br />
     Anyone who knows anything about phreaking should know that in the<br />
old days of phreaking, phreaks used hardware to have fun instead of other<br />
people's Sprint and MCI codes. The most famous (and useful) was the good<br />
ol' Blue Box. However, Ma Bell decided to fight back and now most phone systems<br />
have protections against tone-emitting boxes. This makes boxing just<br />
about futile in most areas of the United States (ie those areas with Crossbar<br />
or Step-By-Step). If you live in or near a good-sized city, then your phone<br />
system is probably up-to-date (ESS) and this box (and most others)<br />
will be useless. However, if you live in the middle of nowhere (no offense<br />
intended), you may find a use for this and other boxes.<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
---------<br />
     1  Foot of Blue Wire<br />
     1  Foot of Grey Wire<br />
     1  Foot of Brown Wire<br />
     1  Small SPDT Switch (*)<br />
     1  Standard Ma Bell Phone<br />
(*) SPDT = Single Pole/Double Throw<br />
<br />
Tools:<br />
-----<br />
     1  Soldering Iron<br />
     1  Flat-Tip Screwdriver<br />
<br />
Procedure:<br />
---------<br />
(1) Loosen the two screws on the bottom of the phone and take the casinf off.<br />
(2) Loosen the screws on the side of the keypad and remove the keypad from<br />
the mounting bracket.<br />
(3) Remove the plastic cover from the keypad.<br />
(4) Turn the keypad so that *0# is facing you. Turn the keypad over. You'll see<br />
a bunch of wires, contacts, two Black Coils, etc.<br />
(5) Look at the Coil on the left. It will have five (5) Solder Contacts<br />
facing you. Solder the Grey Wire to the fourth Contact Pole from the left.<br />
(6) Solder the other end of the Grey Wire to the Left Pole of the SPDT Switch.<br />
(7) Find the Three (3) Gold-Plated Contacts on the bottom edge of the keypad.<br />
On the Left Contact, gently seperate the two touching Connectors (they're<br />
soldered together) and spread them apart.<br />
(8) Solder the Brown Wire to the Contact farthest from you, and solder the<br />
other end to the Right Pole of the SPDT Switch.<br />
(9) Solder the Blue Wire to the Closest Contact, and the other end to the<br />
Center Pole of the SPDT Switch.››(10) Put the phone back together.<br />
<br />
Using The Silver Box:<br />
--------------------<br />
     What you have just done was installed a switch that will change<br />
the 369# column into an ABCD column. For example, to dial a 'B', switch<br />
to Silver Box Tones and hit '6'.<br />
     Noone is sure of the A, B, and C uses. However, in an area with an<br />
old phone system, the 'D' button has an interesting effect. Dial Directory<br />
Assistance and hold down 'D'. The phone will ring, and you<br />
should get a pulsing tone. If you get a pissed-off operator, you have a<br />
newer phone system with defenses against Silver Boxes.<br />
At the pulsing tone, dial a 6 or 7. These are loop ends.<br />
<br />
                                        -= Exodus =-<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
White Box Plans                                 by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Introduction:<br />
------------<br />
     The White Box is simply a portable Touch-Tone keypad. For more<br />
information on Touch-Tone, see my Silver Box Plans.<br />
Materials:<br />
---------<br />
  1 Touch-Tone Keypad<br />
  1 Miniature 1000 to 8 Ohm Transformer<br />
    (Radio Shack # 273-1380)<br />
  1 Standard 8 Ohm Speaker<br />
  2 9V Batteries<br />
  2 9V Battery Clips<br />
<br />
Procedure:<br />
---------<br />
(1) Connect the Red Wire from the Transformer to either terminal on the<br />
Speaker.<br />
(2) Connect the White Wire from the Transformer to the other terminal on<br />
the Speaker.<br />
(3) Connect the Red Wire from one Battery Clip to the Black Wire from the other<br />
Battery Clip.<br />
(4) Connect the Red Wire from the second Battery Clip to the Green Wire<br />
from the Keypad.<br />
(5) Connect the Blue Wire from the Keypad to the Orange/Black Wire from<br />
the Keypad.<br />
(6) Connect the Black Wire from the first Battery Clip to the two above<br />
wires (Blue and Black/Orange).<br />
(7) Connect the Black Wire from the Keypad to the Blue Wire from the<br />
Transformer.<br />
(8) Connect the Red/Green Wire from the Keypad to the Green Wire from the<br />
Transformer.<br />
(9) Make sure the Black Wire from the Transformer and the remaining wires<br />
from the Keypad are free.<br />
(10) Hook up the Batteries.<br />
<br />
Optional:<br />
--------<br />
(1) Put it all in a case.<br />
(2) Add a Silver Box to it.<br />
<br />
Use:<br />
---<br />
Just use it like a normal keypad, except put the speaker next to the<br />
receiver of the phone you're using.<br />
<br />
                              ---------Exodus--------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The BLAST Box                                 Courtesy of the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Ever want to really make yourself be heard? Ever talk to someone on the phone<br />
who just doesn't shut up? Or just call the operator and pop her eardrum? Well,<br />
up until recently it has been impossible for you to do these things. That is,<br />
unless of course you've got a blast box. All a blast box is, is a really cheap<br />
amplifier, (around 5 watts or so) connected in place of the microphone on your<br />
telephone. It works best on model 500 AT&T Phones, and if constructed small<br />
enough, can be placed inside the phone.<br />
<br />
Construction:<br />
<br />
Construction is not really important. Well it is, but since I'm letting you make<br />
your own amp, I really don't have to include this.<br />
<br />
Usage:<br />
<br />
Once you've built your blast box, simply connect a microphone (or use the<br />
microphone from the phone) to the input of the amplifier, and presto. There it<br />
is. Now, believe it or not, this device actually works. (At least on crossbar.)<br />
It seems that Illinois bell switching systems allow quite alot of current to<br />
pass right through the switching office, and out to whoever you're calling. When<br />
you talk in the phone, it comes out of the other phone (again it works best if<br />
the phone that you're calling has the standard western electric earpiece)<br />
incredibly loud. This device is especially good for PBS Subscription drives.<br />
Have "Phun", and don't get caught!<br />
<br />
---- Compiled by: Exodus------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Cheesebox Plans                         Courtesy of The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
     A Cheesebox (named for the type of box the first one was<br />
found in) is a type of box which will, in effect, make your<br />
telephone a Pay-Phone.....This is a simple,modernized, and easy<br />
way of doing it....<br />
<br />
      Inside Info:These were first used by bookies many years ago<br />
as a way of making calls to people without being called by the<br />
cops or having their numbers traced and/or tapped......<br />
<br />
     How To Make A Modern Cheese Box<br />
<br />
     Ingredients:<br />
     ------------<br />
<br />
     1 Call Forwarding service on the line<br />
<br />
     1 Set of Red Box Tones<br />
<br />
     The number to your prefix's Intercept operator (do some scanning<br />
     for this one)<br />
<br />
     How To:<br />
     -------<br />
<br />
       After you find the number to the intercept operator in<br />
your prefix, use your call-forwarding and forward all calls to<br />
her...this will make your phone stay off the hook(actually, now<br />
it waits for a quarter to be dropped in)...you now have a cheese<br />
box... In Order To Call Out On This Line:You must use your Red<br />
Box tones and generate the quarter dropping in...then,you can<br />
make phone calls to people...as far as I know, this is fairly<br />
safe, and they do not check much...Although I am not sure, I<br />
think you can even make credit-card calls from a cheesebox<br />
phone and not get traced...<br />
<br />
-- Exodus --<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Gold Box Plans                                        by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
<br />
HOW TO BUILD IT<br />
_______________<br />
<br />
<br />
     You will need the following:<br />
<br />
Two 10K OHM and three 1.4K OHM resistors<br />
Two 2N3904 transistors<br />
Two Photo Cells<br />
Two Red LED'S (The more light produced the better)<br />
A box that will not let light in<br />
Red and Green Wire<br />
<br />
Light from the #1 LED must shine directly on the photocell #1. The gold<br />
box I made needed the top of the LED's to touch the photo cell for it to<br />
work.<br />
<br />
The same applies to the #2 photo cell and LED.<br />
<br />
          1<br />
    :-PHOTOCELL--: <br />
    :            :<br />
    :            :BASE<br />
    :    1     TTTTT<br />
    :  +LED-   TRANSISTOR              <br />
    :          TTTTT                   <br />
    :           : :                    <br />
    :  -I(--    : :COLLECTOR<br />
RED1--&lt;     &gt;:--: :-------:-----GREEN2<br />
       -I(-- :            ----------:<br />
             :                      :  <br />
        2    :-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/ <br />
       LED     10K    10K   1.4K 1.4K  <br />
                 RESISTORES<br />
<br />
            2<br />
       -PHOTOCELL-----------------<br />
       :                         :<br />
       :BASE                     :<br />
     TTTTT                       :<br />
     TRANSISTOR                  :<br />
     TTTTT                       :     <br />
      : :EMITTER                 :<br />
GREEN1- --------------------------RED2<br />
     :   :<br />
     /+/+/<br />
      1.4K  <br />
<br />
The 1.4K resistor is variable and if the second part of the gold box is <br />
skipped it will still work but when someone picks up the phone they will<br />
hear a faint dial tone in the background and might report it to the <br />
Gestapo er...(AT&T). <br />
1.4K will give you good reception with little risk of a Gestapo agent at <br />
your door.<br />
<br />
    <br />
Now that you have built it take two green wires of the same length and<br />
strip the ends, twist two ends together and connect them to green1 and<br />
place a piece of tape on it with "line #1" writing on it.<br />
<br />
Continue the process with red1 only use red wire. Repeat with red2 and <br />
green2 but change to line #2.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
HOW TO INSTALL<br />
______________<br />
<br />
You will need to find two phone lines that are close together. Label one of<br />
teh phone lines "Line #1". Cut the phone lines and take the outer coating<br />
off it. Tere should be 4 wires. Cut the yellow and black wires off and<br />
strip the red and green wires for both lines.<br />
<br />
Line #1 should be in two pieces. Take the green wire of one end and connect <br />
it to one of the green wires on the gold box. Take the other half of line<br />
#1 and hook the free green wire to the green wire on the phone line. Repeat<br />
the process with red1 and the other line.<br />
<br />
All you need to do now is to write down the phone numbers of the place you<br />
hooked it up at and go home and call it. You should get a dial tone!!!<br />
If not, try changing the emittor with the collector.<br />
<br />
<br />
Have a great time with this!            --------Exodus----------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The Lunch Box                          Courtesy of Exodus<br />
<br />
Introduction<br />
===========<br />
<br />
The Lunch Box is a VERY simple transmitter which can be handy for all sorts of<br />
things. It is quite small and can easily be put in a number of places. I have<br />
successfully used it for tapping fones, getting inside info, blackmail and<br />
other such things. The possibilities are endless. I will also include the plans<br />
or an equally small receiver for your newly made toy. Use it for just about<br />
anything. You can also make the transmitter and receiver together in one box<br />
and use it as a walkie talkie.<br />
<br />
Materials you will need<br />
======================<br />
<br />
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip<br />
(1) 25-mfd, 15 volt electrolytic capacitor<br />
(2) .0047 mfd capacitors<br />
(1) .022 mfd capacitor<br />
(1) 51 pf capacitor<br />
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor<br />
(1) Transistor antenna coil<br />
(1) 2N366 transistor<br />
(1) 2N464 transistor<br />
(1) 100k resistor<br />
(1) 5.6k resistor<br />
(1) 10k resistor<br />
(1) 2meg potentiometer with SPST switch<br />
 Some good wire, solder, soldering iron, board to put it on, box (optional)<br />
<br />
Schematic for The Lunch Box<br />
===========================<br />
<br />
This may get a tad confusing but just print it out and pay attention.<br />
<br />
         [!]<br />
          !<br />
        51 pf<br />
          !<br />
       ---+----  ------------base   collector<br />
      !        )(               2N366       +----+------/&#092;/&#092;/----GND<br />
    365 pf     ()              emitter           !<br />
       !        )(                 !              !<br />
      +--------  ---+----         !              !<br />
      !             !    !        !              !<br />
     GND            /  .022mfd    !              !<br />
                 10k&#092;    !        !              !<br />
                    /   GND       +------------------------emitter<br />
                    !             !              !             2N464<br />
                    /           .0047            !          base   collector<br />
              2meg  &#092;----+        !              !   +--------+       !<br />
                    /    !       GND             !   !                !<br />
                        GND                      !   !                !<br />
        +-------------+.0047+--------------------+   !                !<br />
                                                      !   +--25mfd-----+<br />
            -----------------------------------------+   !            !<br />
       microphone                                        +--/&#092;/&#092;/-----+<br />
            ---------------------------------------------+   100k     !<br />
                                                                      !<br />
                  GND----&gt;/&lt;---------------------!+!+!+---------------+<br />
                        switch                  Battery<br />
                    from 2meg pot.<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes about the schematic<br />
=========================<br />
<br />
1.  GND means ground<br />
2.  The GND near the switch and the GND by the 2meg potentiometer should be<br />
    connected.<br />
3.  Where you see:  )(<br />
                    ()<br />
                    )( it is the transistor antenna coil with 15 turns of<br />
                       regular hook-up wire around it.<br />
4.  The middle of the loop on the left side (the left of "()") you should run<br />
    a wire down to the "+" which has nothing attached to it. There is a .0047<br />
    capacitor on the correct piece of wire.<br />
5.  For the microphone use a magnetic earphone (1k to 2k).<br />
6.  Where you see "[!]" is the antenna. Use about 8 feet of wire to broadcast<br />
    approx 300ft. Part 15 of the FCC rules and regulation says you can't<br />
    broadcast over 300 feet without a license. (Hahaha). Use more wire for an<br />
    antenna for longer distances. (Attach it to the black wire on the fone<br />
    line for about a 250 foot antenna!)<br />
<br />
Operation of the Lunch Box<br />
==========================<br />
<br />
This transmitter will send the signals over the AM radio band. You use the<br />
variable capacitor to adjust what freq. you want to use. Find a good unused<br />
freq. down at the lower end of the scale and you're set. Use the 2 meg pot. to<br />
adjust gain. Just fuck with it until you get what sounds good. The switch on<br />
the 2meg is for turning the Lunch Box on and off. When everything is adjusted,<br />
turn on an AM radio adjust it to where you think the signal is. Have a friend<br />
lay some shit thru the Box and tune in to it. That's all there is to it. The<br />
plans for a simple receiver are shown below:<br />
<br />
The Lunch Box receiver<br />
======================<br />
<br />
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip<br />
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor<br />
(1) 51 pf capacitor<br />
(1) 1N38B diode<br />
(1) Transistor antenna coil<br />
(1) 2N366 transistor<br />
(1) SPST toggle switch<br />
(1) 1k to 2k magnetic earphone<br />
<br />
Schematic for receiver<br />
======================<br />
<br />
         [!]<br />
           !<br />
        51 pf<br />
          !<br />
     +----+----+<br />
     !         !<br />
     )       365 pf<br />
     (----+    !<br />
     )    !    !<br />
     +---------+---GND<br />
          !<br />
          +---*&gt;!----base  collector-----<br />
             diode      2N366           earphone<br />
                        emitter    +-----<br />
                          !        !<br />
                         GND       !<br />
                                    -<br />
                                   +<br />
                                   - battery<br />
                                   +<br />
           GND------&gt;/&lt;------------+<br />
                  switch<br />
<br />
Closing statement<br />
=================<br />
<br />
This two devices can be built for under a total of $10.00. Not too bad. Using<br />
these devices in illegal ways is your option. If you get caught, I accept NO<br />
responsibility for your actions. This can be a lot of fun if used correctly.<br />
Hook it up to the red wire on the phone line and it will send the<br />
conversation over the air waves.<br />
<br />
Enjoy!<br />
 <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Olive Box Plans                        Courtesy of Exodus<br />
<br />
    This is a relatively new box, and all it basically does is serve as a phone<br />
ringer. You have two choices for ringers, a piezoelectric transducer (ringer),<br />
or a standard 8 ohm speaker. The speaker has a more pleasant tone to it, but<br />
either will do fine. This circuit can also be used in conjunction with a rust<br />
box to control an external something or other when the phone rings. Just connect<br />
the 8 ohm speaker output to the inputs on the rust box, and control the pot to<br />
tune it to light the light (which can be replaced by a relay for external<br />
controlling) when the phone rings.<br />
<br />
             ______________<br />
            |              |        ^<br />
       NC --|-- 5      4 --|-----/&#092;/&#092;/-------&gt;G<br />
            |              |      / R2<br />
G&lt;----)|----|-- 6      3 --|-- NC<br />
    | C3    |      U1      |<br />
     -------|-- 7      2 --|---------- --- -- - &gt; TO RINGER<br />
            |              |<br />
        ----|-- 8      1 --|--<br />
       |    |______________|  |<br />
       |                       ---/&#092;/&#092;/----|(----- L1<br />
       |                           R1      C1<br />
        ------------------------------------------ L2<br />
<br />
                  a. Main ringer TTL circuit<br />
<br />
(&gt;::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::&lt;)<br />
<br />
                                   _<br />
FROM PIN 2 &lt; - -- --- ----------| |_| |-------------&gt;G<br />
                                    P1<br />
<br />
                  b. Peizoelectric transducer<br />
<br />
(&gt;::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::&lt;)<br />
<br />
                                                      __  /|<br />
FROM PIN 2 &lt; - -- --- ---------|(---------.  .-------|  |/ |<br />
                                          &gt;||&lt;       |S1|  |<br />
                                          &gt;||&lt;     --|  |  |<br />
                                          &gt;||&lt;    |  |__|&#092; |<br />
                              G&lt;---------.&gt;||&lt;.---        &#092;|<br />
                                           T1<br />
                c. Elctro magnetic transducer<br />
Parts List<br />
----------<br />
<br />
U1 - Texas Instruments TCM1506<br />
T1 - 4000:8 ohm audio transfomer<br />
S1 - 8 ohm speaker<br />
R1 - 2.2k resistor<br />
R2 - External variable resistor; adjusts timing frequency<br />
C1 - .47uF capacitor<br />
C2 - .1uF capacitor<br />
C3 - 10uF capacitor<br />
L1 - Tip<br />
L2 - Ring<br />
     L1 and L2 are the phone line.<br />
<br />
<br />
Shift Rate:<br />
-----------<br />
<br />
  This is the formula for determining the shift rate:<br />
<br />
                   1                   1<br />
    SR = --------------------- = ------------ = 6.25 Hz<br />
         (DSR(1/f1)+DSR(1/f2))    128     128<br />
                                 ----  + ----<br />
                                 1714    1500<br />
<br />
<br />
              DSR = Shift Devider Rate ratio = 128<br />
                f1 = High Output Frequency = 1714<br />
               f2 = Low Output Frequency = 1500<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
well hows that for my first post? alright that all the ones ive got for now, depending on the peoples reactions in the poll ill post more stuff in this and other catagories-peace]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 03:17:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43013-old-school-phreaking-box-plans/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>box tutorials</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43012-box-tutorials/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[all of these plans are written by other peoples and are mostly out of date today, but they just might be helpful so im posting them anyway.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Black Box Plans                                 by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Introduction:<br />
------------<br />
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20<br />
Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings<br />
the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts.<br />
The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10,<br />
they start billing the person who called you.<br />
<br />
Function:<br />
--------<br />
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts,<br />
so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled<br />
into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller.<br />
However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious<br />
and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds.<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
---------<br />
1 1.8K 1/2 Watt Resistor<br />
1 1.5V LED<br />
1 SPST Switch<br />
<br />
Procedure:<br />
---------<br />
(1) Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and<br />
lifting the case off.<br />
(2) There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working<br />
with the Red Wire.<br />
(3) Connect the following in parallel:<br />
     A. The Resistor and LED.<br />
     B. The SPST Switch.<br />
In other words, you should end up with this:<br />
              (Red Wire)<br />
           !---/&#092;/&#092;/&#092;--O--!<br />
(Line)-----!              !-----(Phone)<br />
           !-----_/_------!<br />
          /&#092;/&#092;/&#092; = Resistor<br />
          O      = LED<br />
          _/_    = SPST<br />
<br />
Use:<br />
---<br />
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off,<br />
your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings,<br />
the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage<br />
is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box<br />
is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls.<br />
Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.<br />
<br />
                                      ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
p.s. Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this <br />
may or may not work in your area. If you live in bumfuck Kentucky, <br />
then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...) ----Ex.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox  rev. 4.14          by -= Exodus =-<br />
   <br />
             -------------Introduction-------------<br />
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at<br />
least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching<br />
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build<br />
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color<br />
of ours. <br />
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a <br />
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house.  To <br />
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.<br />
<br />
             ---------Construction and Use---------<br />
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of<br />
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,<br />
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:<br />
the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary<br />
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and<br />
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There<br />
should be a grey jack with four wires  (red, green, yellow & black)<br />
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.<br />
To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow<br />
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so<br />
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your<br />
telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular<br />
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses<br />
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight,<br />
and does not require the destruction of a phone.<br />
<br />
             ------------Beige Box Uses------------<br />
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,<br />
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be<br />
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.<br />
remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell<br />
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver<br />
(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also).<br />
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.<br />
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately<br />
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked,<br />
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.<br />
However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have<br />
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to<br />
terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"<br />
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if<br />
not labeled, usually on the right).<br />
<br />
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to<br />
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip<br />
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.<br />
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.<br />
<br />
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator<br />
clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure<br />
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.<br />
Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use<br />
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:<br />
<br />
       &gt; Eavesdropping<br />
       &gt; Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends<br />
       &gt; Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)<br />
       &gt; Phucking people over<br />
       &gt; Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself<br />
       &gt; Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught<br />
       &gt; Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.<br />
<br />
Eavesdropping<br />
-------------<br />
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This<br />
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore<br />
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,<br />
it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone<br />
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the<br />
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete<br />
their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you<br />
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who<br />
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.<br />
<br />
Dialing Long Distance<br />
---------------------<br />
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before<br />
the NPA.<br />
<br />
Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing<br />
------------------------------------------<br />
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there.<br />
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception<br />
and are more dificult to come by.<br />
<br />
Phucking People Over<br />
--------------------<br />
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics<br />
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will<br />
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition,<br />
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your<br />
phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.<br />
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause<br />
of the problem. <br />
Bothering the Operator<br />
----------------------<br />
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.<br />
Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced<br />
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section,<br />
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?<br />
He he he...<br />
<br />
Blue Boxing<br />
-----------<br />
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice<br />
feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once<br />
again, not traced to your line...<br />
<br />
---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----<br />
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,<br />
and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:<br />
<br />
            &gt; Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,<br />
            &gt; Use more than one output device<br />
            &gt; Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real<br />
              name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)<br />
            &gt; In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output<br />
              device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over<br />
              the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is<br />
              opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and<br />
              you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded<br />
              on your teritory.<br />
<br />
Now, imagine the possibilities:  a $2000 dollar phone bill for <br />
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the <br />
operator at no risk to you!  Think of it as walking into an <br />
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
                                     Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Aqua Box Plans                                            by Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreadded F.B.I. 'Lock In Trace.'<br />
For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace.<br />
This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it.<br />
This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic<br />
electronics knowledge can construct and use it.<br />
<br />
The Lock In Trace<br />
------------------<br />
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone<br />
users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress.<br />
For those of you who are not familiar with the conecpt of 'locking in',<br />
then here's a brief desciption. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation,<br />
sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there,<br />
they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections<br />
are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.<br />
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are<br />
calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line<br />
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same<br />
voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage<br />
is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you<br />
even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand<br />
better about that, for call waiting intersepts the electricity and makes<br />
a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter<br />
of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver,then it see-saws<br />
the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line<br />
it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up.<br />
If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring.<br />
That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when<br />
electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity<br />
causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.)<br />
So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the<br />
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time<br />
someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease<br />
a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting<br />
about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all<br />
be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the<br />
voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using<br />
the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite<br />
faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You<br />
have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can<br />
not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out<br />
the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain<br />
the exact voltage nessecary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine<br />
this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go<br />
pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a <br />
phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you<br />
can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some<br />
modifications have to be done.<br />
<br />
Materials<br />
----------<br />
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type<br />
connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug<br />
into a light bulb.<br />
One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your<br />
own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainor must be built in (I.E.<br />
The central box)<br />
Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to<br />
plug the aqua box into)<br />
Some creativity and easy work.<br />
<br />
*Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so<br />
don't go out and buy a new phone for it!<br />
<br />
Procedure<br />
---------<br />
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could<br />
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having<br />
that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into<br />
the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock<br />
you in with.<br />
1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have<br />
only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the<br />
electrical appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter<br />
while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the<br />
top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside.<br />
Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...)<br />
then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Lo and Behold,<br />
you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires<br />
connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance.<br />
So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until<br />
they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the<br />
jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with<br />
insultation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power<br />
is being drained from the line.<br />
2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the<br />
wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other.<br />
If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the<br />
phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After<br />
you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with<br />
the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box<br />
or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it.<br />
That box is your ticket out of this.<br />
3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty<br />
flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at<br />
it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one<br />
big box, with some kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be<br />
the power connector.  In order to use it, just keep this box handy.<br />
Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the<br />
voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks,<br />
unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.<br />
<br />
Use<br />
----<br />
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this<br />
unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't<br />
panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked<br />
to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source...<br />
The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light<br />
bulb should drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at<br />
the same time.<br />
<br />
Happy boxing and stay free!               ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The Infamous Blotto Box!!                       by The Jolly Roger<br />
      <br />
        (I bet that NOONE has the balls to build this one!)<br />
<br />
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent<br />
phreakers around America has finally been conceived!<br />
Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box,<br />
here is a brief summery of a legend.<br />
<br />
--*-=&gt; The Blotto Box &lt;=-*--<br />
<br />
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first<br />
made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that<br />
the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage<br />
Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame,<br />
the Blotto Box is finally available to the public.<br />
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed<br />
in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and<br />
should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse<br />
machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in<br />
high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY!<br />
All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box<br />
and it's function.<br />
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its<br />
knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone<br />
lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area<br />
code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for<br />
that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will<br />
not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical<br />
impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will<br />
ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the<br />
box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here.<br />
We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people<br />
close to the box may be electricuted if they pick up the phone.<br />
But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator.<br />
If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take<br />
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a<br />
superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is<br />
not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is<br />
electricity to continue with.<br />
OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you<br />
to do with it...<br />
<br />
-*-=&gt;Blotto Functions/Installin'&lt;=-*-<br />
<br />
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The<br />
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box.<br />
Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt<br />
to construct this box.<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
  - A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a <br />
    stadium or some such place.<br />
  - 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a<br />
    phone line jack.<br />
  - A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.<br />
  - A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that<br />
    you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch<br />
    boards and would be a more effective line to start with.<br />
    or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area<br />
    code!<br />
  - A soldering iron and much solder.<br />
  - A remote control or long wooden pole.<br />
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes,<br />
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of<br />
the other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make<br />
sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole,<br />
not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything<br />
convienent, if you are two feeble that fuck don't try this.<br />
Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of<br />
green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing<br />
off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the<br />
voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord<br />
and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord<br />
into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off.<br />
Open it up and match the red and green wires with<br />
the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on<br />
and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter.<br />
Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those<br />
lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all<br />
of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup<br />
of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long<br />
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.<br />
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file<br />
first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become<br />
null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your<br />
damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating<br />
so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself.<br />
The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your<br />
area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the<br />
phone lines around you in every direction.<br />
<br />
Have a nice day!<br />
<br />
--*-=&gt;The Blotto Box: Aftermath&lt;=-*--<br />
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly<br />
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).<br />
<br />
                                          ---------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Brown Box Plans                                 by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does <br />
is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party<br />
line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems<br />
with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are<br />
one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other<br />
person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some <br />
amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?].<br />
I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will <br />
make up for any minor volume loss.<br />
<br />
Here is the diagram:<br />
---------------------------------------<br />
KEY:___________________________________<br />
    |  PART               | SYMBOL    |<br />
    |---------------------------------|<br />
    | BLACK WIRE          |   *       |<br />
    | YELLOW WIRE         |   =       |<br />
    | RED WIRE            |   +       |<br />
    | GREEN WIRE          |   -       |<br />
    | SPDT SWITCH         |  _/_      |<br />
    |                        _/_      |<br />
    | VERTICAL WIRE       |   |       |<br />
    | HORIZONTAL WIRE     |   _       |<br />
    -----------------------------------<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    =    -    +<br />
          *    ==_/_-    +<br />
          *******_/_++++++<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |              |<br />
          |_____PHONE____|<br />
<br />
                                ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Clear Box Plans                                 by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be<br />
used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on<br />
"PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones<br />
that don't require payment until after the connection is established.<br />
You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then<br />
insert your money after the person answers.<br />
If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on<br />
the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece.<br />
(obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or<br />
other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio<br />
Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a<br />
telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would be<br />
hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except<br />
that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a<br />
microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party<br />
that is being called answers, the caller could speak through the little<br />
microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out<br />
the induction coil, and into the back of the receiver where<br />
it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other <br />
partywould be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus<br />
'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will<br />
not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait<br />
forever for the coins to be put in.<br />
The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the<br />
fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common.<br />
Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF,<br />
dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment,<br />
(for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line.<br />
Usually a payphone line is different, but this is a regular phone line<br />
and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company.<br />
<br />
                              ------------Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Green Box Plans                                 by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain <br />
fortresses) left a sour taste in many red boxers mouths, thus the <br />
green box was invented. The green box generates useful tones such as<br />
COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND RINGBACK. These are the tones that<br />
ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the CO when appropriate.<br />
Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at the fortress station but<br />
must be used by the CALLED party.<br />
<br />
Here are the tones:<br />
COIN COLLECT     700+1100hz<br />
COIN RETURN      1100+1700hz<br />
RINGBACK         700+1700hz<br />
<br />
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator realease<br />
signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO.<br />
This can be done by sending 900hz + 1500hz or a single 2600 wink (90 ms.)<br />
Also do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the<br />
3 minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF <br />
tones for collecting and returning coins reach the CO, they are <br />
converted into an appropriate DC pulse (-130 volts for return and<br />
+130 for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the <br />
fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins.<br />
The alledged "T-network" takes advantage of this information.<br />
When a pulse for coin collect (+130 VDC) is sent down the line,<br />
it must be grounded somewhere. This is usually the yellow or black wire.<br />
Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent<br />
the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute initial<br />
period is almost up, make sure that the black and yellow wires are<br />
severed, then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second<br />
pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the phone, and if all goes well,<br />
it should be "JACKPOT" time.<br />
                               ---------Exodus----------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Blue Box                               courtesy of the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
To quote Karl Marx, blue boxing has always been the most noble form of<br />
phreaking. As opposed to such things as using an MCI code to make a free<br />
fone call, which is merely mindless pseudo-phreaking, blue boxing<br />
is actual interaction with the Bell System toll network.<br />
It is likewise advisable to be more cautious when blue boxing, but the<br />
careful phreak will not be caught, regardless of what type of switching<br />
system he is under.<br />
In this part, I will explain how and why blue boxing works, as well as<br />
where. In later parts, I will give more practical information for blue<br />
boxing and routing information. To begin with, blue boxing is simply<br />
communicating with trunks. Trunks must not be confused with subscriber<br />
lines (or "customer loops") which are standard telefone lines. Trunks are<br />
those lines that connect central offices. Now, when trunks are not in<br />
use (i.e., idle or "on-hook" state) they have 2600Hz applied to them. If<br />
they are two-way trunks, there is 2600Hz in both directions. When a trunk<br />
IS in use (busy or "off-hook" state), the 2600Hz is removed from the side<br />
that is off-hook. The 2600Hz is therefore known as a supervisory<br />
signal, because it indicates the status of a trunk; on hook (tone) or<br />
off-hook (no tone). Note also that 2600Hz denoted SF (single frequency)<br />
signalling and is "in-band." This is very important. "In-band" means that<br />
is within the band of frequencies that may be transmitted over normal<br />
telefone lines. Other SF signals, such as 3700Hz are used also. However,<br />
they cannot be carried over the telefone network normally (they are<br />
"out-of-band" and are therefore not able to be taken advantage of as<br />
2600Hz is. Back to trunks. Let's take a hypothetical phone call. You pick<br />
up your fone and dial 1+806-258-1234 (your good friend in Amarillo, Texas).<br />
For ease, we'll assume that you are on #5 Crossbar switching and not in the<br />
806 area. Your central office (CO) would recognize that 806 is a foreign<br />
NPA, so it would route the call to the toll centre that serves you.<br />
[For the sake of accuracy here, and for the more experienced readers,<br />
note that the CO in question is a class 5 with LAMA that uses out-of-band<br />
SF supervisory signalling]. Depending on where you are in the country,<br />
the call would leave your toll centre (on more trunks) to another toll<br />
centre, or office of higher "rank". Then it would be routed to central<br />
office 806-258 eventually and the call would be completed.<br />
<br />
            Illustration<br />
A---CO1-------TC1------TC2----CO2----B<br />
<br />
A.... you<br />
CO1=your central office<br />
TC1.. your toll office.<br />
TC2.. toll office in Amarillo.<br />
CO2.. 806-258 central office.<br />
B.... your friend (806-258-1234)<br />
<br />
In this situation it would be realistic to say that CO2 uses SF<br />
in-band (2600Hz) signalling, while all the others use out-of-band signal-<br />
ling (3700Hz). If you don't understand this, don't worry. I am pointing<br />
this out merely for the sake of accuracy. The point is that while you<br />
are connected to 806-258-1234, all those trunks from YOUR central office<br />
(CO1) to the 806-258 central office (CO2) do *NOT* have 2600Hz on them,<br />
indicating to the Bell equipment that a call is in progress and the trunks<br />
are in use.<br />
Now let's say you're tired of talking to your friend in Amarillo, so you<br />
send a 2600Hz down the line. This tone travels down the line to your<br />
friend's central office (CO2) where it is detected. However, that CO thinks<br />
that the 2600Hz is originating from Bell equipment, indicating to it<br />
that you've hung up, and thus the trunks are once again idle (with 2600Hz<br />
present on them). But actually, you have not hung up, you have fooled the<br />
equipment atyour friend's CO into thinking you have. Thus,it disconnects<br />
him and resets the equipment to prepare for the next call. All this happens<br />
very quickly (300-800ms for step-by-step equipment and 150-400ms for other<br />
equipment). When you stop sending 2600Hz (after about a second), the<br />
equipment thinks that another call is coming towards<br />
--&gt; on hook, no tone --&gt;off hook.<br />
Now that you've stopped sending 2600Hz, several things happen:<br />
<br />
1) A trunk is seized.<br />
2) A "wink" is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end indicating that<br />
the CALLED end (trunk) is not ready to receive digits yet.<br />
3) A register is found and attached to the CALLED end of the trunk within<br />
about two seconds (max).<br />
4) A start-dial signal is sent to the CALLING end from the CALLED end<br />
indicating that the CALLED end is ready to receive digits.<br />
Now, all of this is pretty much transparent to the blue boxer. All he<br />
really hears when these four things happen is a &lt;beep&gt;&lt;kerchunk&gt;. So,<br />
seizure of a trunk would go something like this:<br />
<br />
1&gt; Send a 2600Hz<br />
2&gt; Terminate 2600Hz after 1-2 secs.<br />
3&gt; [beep][kerchunk]<br />
<br />
Once this happens, you are connected to a tandem that is ready to obey your<br />
every command. The next step is to send signalling information in order to<br />
place your call. For this you must simulate the signalling used by<br />
operators and automatic toll-dialing equipment for use on trunks. There are<br />
mainly two systems, DP and MF. However, DP went out with the dinosaurs, so<br />
I'll only discuss MF signalling. MF (multi-frequency) signalling is the<br />
signalling used by the majority of the inter- and intra-lata network. It is<br />
also used in international dialing known as the CCITT no.5 system.<br />
MF signals consist of 7 frequecies, beginning with 700Hz and separated by<br />
200Hz. A different set of two of the 7 frequencies represent the digits 0<br />
thru 9, plus an additional 5 special keys. The frequencies and uses are as<br />
follows:<br />
<br />
Frequencies (Hz)  Domestic    Int'l<br />
-------------------------------------<br />
 700+900             1          1<br />
 700+1100            2          2<br />
 900+1100            3          3<br />
 700+1300            4          4<br />
 900+1300            5          5<br />
1100+1300            6          6<br />
 700+1500            7          7<br />
 900+1500            8          8<br />
1100+1500            9          9<br />
1300+1500            0          0<br />
 700+1700           ST3p       Code 1<br />
 900+1700           STp        Code 1<br />
1100+1700           KP         KP1<br />
1300+1700           ST2p       KP2<br />
1500+1700           ST         ST<br />
 The timing of all the MF signals is a nominal 60ms, except for KP, which<br />
should have a duration of 100ms. There should also be a 60ms silent period<br />
between digits. This is very flexible however, and most Bell equipment will<br />
accept outrageous timings. In addition to the standard uses<br />
listed above, MF pulsing also has expanded usages known as "expanded<br />
inband signalling" that include such things as coin collect, coin return,<br />
ringback, operator attached, and operator attached, and operator<br />
released. KP2, code 11, and code 12 and the ST_ps (STart "primes" all have<br />
special uses which will be mentioned only briefly here.<br />
To complete a call using a blue box once seizure of a trunk has been<br />
accomplished by sending 2600Hz and pausing for the &lt;beep&gt;&lt;kerchunk&gt;, one<br />
must first send a KP. This readies the register for the digits that follow.<br />
For a standard domestic call, the KP would be followed by either 7 digits<br />
(if the call were in the same NPA as the seized trunk) or 10 digits (if the<br />
call were not in the same NPA as the seized trunk). [Exactly like dialing<br />
normal fone call]. Following either the KP and 7 or 10 digits, a STart is<br />
sent to signify that no more digits follow. Example of a complete call:<br />
<br />
1&gt; Dial 1-806-258-1234<br />
2&gt; wait for a call-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)<br />
3&gt; Send 2600Hz for about 1 second.<br />
4&gt; Wait for about ll-progress indication (such as ring,busy,recording,etc.)<br />
5&gt; Send KP+305+994+9966+ST<br />
The call will then connect if everything was done properly. Note that if a<br />
call to an 806 number were being placed in the same situation, the are code<br />
would be omitted and only KP + seven digits + ST would be sent.<br />
Code 11 and code 12 are used in international calling to request<br />
certain types of operators. KP2 is used in international calling to route a<br />
call other than by way of the normal route, whether for economic or<br />
equipment reasons. STp, ST2p, and ST3p (prime, two prime, and three prime)<br />
are used in TSPS signalling to indicate calling type of call (such as<br />
coin-direct dialing.<br />
<br />
It all started here...................  Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Pearl Box Plans                                  by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
The Pearl Box:Definition - This is a box that may substitute for many boxes<br />
which produce tones in hertz. The Pearl Box when operated correctly can<br />
produce tones from 1-9999hz. As you can see, 2600, 1633, 1336 and other<br />
crucial tones are obviously in its sound spectrum.<br />
<br />
Materials you will need in order to build The Pearl Box:<br />
========================================================<br />
C1, C2:.5mf or .5uf ceramic disk<br />
       capacitors<br />
Q1.....NPN transistor (2N2222 works<br />
       best)<br />
S1.....Normally open momentary SPST<br />
       switch<br />
S2.....SPST toggle switch<br />
B1.....Standard 9-Volt battery<br />
R1.....Single turn, 50k potentiometer<br />
R2.....  "     "    100k potentiometer<br />
R3.....  "     "    500k potentiometer<br />
R4.....  "     "    1meg potentiometer<br />
SPKR...Standard 8-ohm speaker<br />
T1.....Mini transformer (8-ohm works<br />
       best)<br />
Misc...Wire, solder, soldering iron, PC<br />
       board or perfboard, box to<br />
       contain the completed unit,<br />
       battery clip<br />
<br />
Instructions for building Pearl Box:<br />
======================================<br />
Since the instruction are EXTREMELY difficult to explain in words, you will<br />
be given a schematic instead. It will be quite difficult to follow but try<br />
it any way. <br />
<br />
(Schematic for The Pearl Box)<br />
+---+------------+---------+<br />
    !            !          &#092;<br />
    C1            C2          &#092;<br />
    !             !            +<br />
    +             +       -----+T1<br />
    !&#092;            +------------+-+<br />
    !  b  c-------!              +<br />
    !   Q1                   !   +-S1-<br />
    !     e-----S2---+       !    SPKR<br />
    !                !       !   +----<br />
    !               B1       !<br />
    !                !       !<br />
    !                +-------+<br />
    !R1   R2   R3   R4!<br />
    /&#092;/&#092; /&#092;/&#092; /&#092;/&#092; /&#092;/&#092;<br />
      +--+ +--+ +--+<br />
Now that you are probably thoroughly confused, let me explain a few<br />
minor details. The potentiometer area is rigged so that the left pole is<br />
connected to the center pole of the potentiometer next to it.<br />
The middle terminal of T1 is connected to the piece of wire that runs down<br />
to the end of the battery.<br />
<br />
Correct operation of The Pearl Box:<br />
===================================<br />
You may want to get some dry-transfer decals at Radio Shack to make this<br />
job a lot easier. Also, some knobs for the tops of the potentiometers<br />
may be useful too. Use the decals to calibrate the knobs. R1 is the knob<br />
for the ones place, R2 is for the tens place, R3 if for the hundreds<br />
place and R4 is for the thousands place. S1 is for producing the all the<br />
tones and S2 is for power. <br />
Step 1: Turn on the power and adjust the knobs for the desired tone.<br />
       (Example: For 2600 hz-<br />
         R1=0:R2=0:R3=6:R4=2)<br />
Step 2: Hit the pushbutton switch and VIOLA! You have the tone. If <br />
you don't have a tone recheck all connections and schematic. <br />
<br />
                             Exodus<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Red Box Plans                                   by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Red boxing is simulating the tones produced by public payphones when you<br />
drop your money in. The tones are beeps of 2200 Hz + 1700 Hz<br />
Nickle = 1 beep for 66 milliseconds.<br />
Dime = 2 beeps, each 66 milliseconds with a 66 millisecond pause between<br />
beeps.<br />
Quarter = 5 beeps, each 33 milliseconds with a 33 millisecond<br />
pause between beeps.<br />
<br />
There are two commonly used methods being used by Phreaks to make free calls.<br />
1. An electronic hand-held device that is made from a pair of Wien-bridge<br />
oscillators with the timing controlled by 555 timing chips.<br />
2. A tape recording of the tones produced by a home computer. One of<br />
the best computers to use would be an Atari ST. It is one of the easier<br />
computers to use because the red box tones can be produced in basic with only<br />
about 5 statments.<br />
<br />
                            -= Exodus =-<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Scarlet Box Plans                               by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
   The purpose of a Scarlet box is to create a very bad conection,<br />
it can be used to crash a BBS or just make life miserable for those you<br />
seek to avenge.<br />
Materials: 2 alligator clips, 3 inch wire, or a resister<br />
(plain wire will create greatest amount of static)<br />
(Resister will decrease the amount of static in porportion to <br />
the resister you are using)<br />
<br />
Step (1): Find the phone box at your victims house, and pop the cover off.<br />
Step (2): Find the two prongs that the phone line you wish to box are<br />
connected to.<br />
Step (3): Hook your alligator clips to your (wire/resister).<br />
Step (4): Find the lower middle prong and take off all wires connected to<br />
it, i think this disables the ground and call waiting and shit like that.<br />
Step (5): Now take one of the alligator clips and attach it to the upper<br />
most prong, and take the other and attach it to the lower middle prong.<br />
Step (6): Now put the cover back on the box and take off!!<br />
<br />
   **       ######## **<br />
   **       # #### #      **<br />
            ########       /<br />
            # #### #      /<br />
            ########     /<br />
                        /<br />
                       /<br />
                      /<br />
                     /<br />
                    /<br />
                   /<br />
                  /<br />
               **/<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
               **<br />
<br />
(**)= prongs <br />
 **<br />
(/) = (wire/resister)<br />
(##)= some phone bullshit<br />
<br />
                                 -= Exodus =-<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Silver Box Plans                                 by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Introduction:<br />
------------<br />
     First a bit of Phone Trivia. A standard telephone keypad has 12 buttons.<br />
These buttons, when pushed, produce a combination of two tones. These tones<br />
represent the row and column of the button you are pushing.<br />
            1   1   1<br />
            2   3   4<br />
            0   3   7<br />
            9   6   7<br />
     697   (1) (2) (3)<br />
     770   (4) (5) (6)<br />
     851   (7) (8) (9)<br />
     941   (*) (0) (#)<br />
So (1) produces a tone of 697+1209, (2) produces a tone of 697+1336, etc.<br />
<br />
Function:<br />
--------<br />
     What the Silver Box does is just creates another column of buttons,<br />
with the new tone of 1633. These buttons are called A, B, C, and D.<br />
<br />
Usefulness:<br />
----------<br />
     Anyone who knows anything about phreaking should know that in the<br />
old days of phreaking, phreaks used hardware to have fun instead of other<br />
people's Sprint and MCI codes. The most famous (and useful) was the good<br />
ol' Blue Box. However, Ma Bell decided to fight back and now most phone systems<br />
have protections against tone-emitting boxes. This makes boxing just<br />
about futile in most areas of the United States (ie those areas with Crossbar<br />
or Step-By-Step). If you live in or near a good-sized city, then your phone<br />
system is probably up-to-date (ESS) and this box (and most others)<br />
will be useless. However, if you live in the middle of nowhere (no offense<br />
intended), you may find a use for this and other boxes.<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
---------<br />
     1  Foot of Blue Wire<br />
     1  Foot of Grey Wire<br />
     1  Foot of Brown Wire<br />
     1  Small SPDT Switch (*)<br />
     1  Standard Ma Bell Phone<br />
(*) SPDT = Single Pole/Double Throw<br />
<br />
Tools:<br />
-----<br />
     1  Soldering Iron<br />
     1  Flat-Tip Screwdriver<br />
<br />
Procedure:<br />
---------<br />
(1) Loosen the two screws on the bottom of the phone and take the casinf off.<br />
(2) Loosen the screws on the side of the keypad and remove the keypad from<br />
the mounting bracket.<br />
(3) Remove the plastic cover from the keypad.<br />
(4) Turn the keypad so that *0# is facing you. Turn the keypad over. You'll see<br />
a bunch of wires, contacts, two Black Coils, etc.<br />
(5) Look at the Coil on the left. It will have five (5) Solder Contacts<br />
facing you. Solder the Grey Wire to the fourth Contact Pole from the left.<br />
(6) Solder the other end of the Grey Wire to the Left Pole of the SPDT Switch.<br />
(7) Find the Three (3) Gold-Plated Contacts on the bottom edge of the keypad.<br />
On the Left Contact, gently seperate the two touching Connectors (they're<br />
soldered together) and spread them apart.<br />
(8) Solder the Brown Wire to the Contact farthest from you, and solder the<br />
other end to the Right Pole of the SPDT Switch.<br />
(9) Solder the Blue Wire to the Closest Contact, and the other end to the<br />
Center Pole of the SPDT Switch.››(10) Put the phone back together.<br />
<br />
Using The Silver Box:<br />
--------------------<br />
     What you have just done was installed a switch that will change<br />
the 369# column into an ABCD column. For example, to dial a 'B', switch<br />
to Silver Box Tones and hit '6'.<br />
     Noone is sure of the A, B, and C uses. However, in an area with an<br />
old phone system, the 'D' button has an interesting effect. Dial Directory<br />
Assistance and hold down 'D'. The phone will ring, and you<br />
should get a pulsing tone. If you get a pissed-off operator, you have a<br />
newer phone system with defenses against Silver Boxes.<br />
At the pulsing tone, dial a 6 or 7. These are loop ends.<br />
<br />
                                        -= Exodus =-<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
White Box Plans                                 by the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Introduction:<br />
------------<br />
     The White Box is simply a portable Touch-Tone keypad. For more<br />
information on Touch-Tone, see my Silver Box Plans.<br />
Materials:<br />
---------<br />
  1 Touch-Tone Keypad<br />
  1 Miniature 1000 to 8 Ohm Transformer<br />
    (Radio Shack # 273-1380)<br />
  1 Standard 8 Ohm Speaker<br />
  2 9V Batteries<br />
  2 9V Battery Clips<br />
<br />
Procedure:<br />
---------<br />
(1) Connect the Red Wire from the Transformer to either terminal on the<br />
Speaker.<br />
(2) Connect the White Wire from the Transformer to the other terminal on<br />
the Speaker.<br />
(3) Connect the Red Wire from one Battery Clip to the Black Wire from the other<br />
Battery Clip.<br />
(4) Connect the Red Wire from the second Battery Clip to the Green Wire<br />
from the Keypad.<br />
(5) Connect the Blue Wire from the Keypad to the Orange/Black Wire from<br />
the Keypad.<br />
(6) Connect the Black Wire from the first Battery Clip to the two above<br />
wires (Blue and Black/Orange).<br />
(7) Connect the Black Wire from the Keypad to the Blue Wire from the<br />
Transformer.<br />
(8) Connect the Red/Green Wire from the Keypad to the Green Wire from the<br />
Transformer.<br />
(9) Make sure the Black Wire from the Transformer and the remaining wires<br />
from the Keypad are free.<br />
(10) Hook up the Batteries.<br />
<br />
Optional:<br />
--------<br />
(1) Put it all in a case.<br />
(2) Add a Silver Box to it.<br />
<br />
Use:<br />
---<br />
Just use it like a normal keypad, except put the speaker next to the<br />
receiver of the phone you're using.<br />
<br />
                              ---------Exodus--------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The BLAST Box                                 Courtesy of the Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
Ever want to really make yourself be heard? Ever talk to someone on the phone<br />
who just doesn't shut up? Or just call the operator and pop her eardrum? Well,<br />
up until recently it has been impossible for you to do these things. That is,<br />
unless of course you've got a blast box. All a blast box is, is a really cheap<br />
amplifier, (around 5 watts or so) connected in place of the microphone on your<br />
telephone. It works best on model 500 AT&T Phones, and if constructed small<br />
enough, can be placed inside the phone.<br />
<br />
Construction:<br />
<br />
Construction is not really important. Well it is, but since I'm letting you make<br />
your own amp, I really don't have to include this.<br />
<br />
Usage:<br />
<br />
Once you've built your blast box, simply connect a microphone (or use the<br />
microphone from the phone) to the input of the amplifier, and presto. There it<br />
is. Now, believe it or not, this device actually works. (At least on crossbar.)<br />
It seems that Illinois bell switching systems allow quite alot of current to<br />
pass right through the switching office, and out to whoever you're calling. When<br />
you talk in the phone, it comes out of the other phone (again it works best if<br />
the phone that you're calling has the standard western electric earpiece)<br />
incredibly loud. This device is especially good for PBS Subscription drives.<br />
Have "Phun", and don't get caught!<br />
<br />
---- Compiled by: Exodus------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Cheesebox Plans                         Courtesy of The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
     A Cheesebox (named for the type of box the first one was<br />
found in) is a type of box which will, in effect, make your<br />
telephone a Pay-Phone.....This is a simple,modernized, and easy<br />
way of doing it....<br />
<br />
      Inside Info:These were first used by bookies many years ago<br />
as a way of making calls to people without being called by the<br />
cops or having their numbers traced and/or tapped......<br />
<br />
     How To Make A Modern Cheese Box<br />
<br />
     Ingredients:<br />
     ------------<br />
<br />
     1 Call Forwarding service on the line<br />
<br />
     1 Set of Red Box Tones<br />
<br />
     The number to your prefix's Intercept operator (do some scanning<br />
     for this one)<br />
<br />
     How To:<br />
     -------<br />
<br />
       After you find the number to the intercept operator in<br />
your prefix, use your call-forwarding and forward all calls to<br />
her...this will make your phone stay off the hook(actually, now<br />
it waits for a quarter to be dropped in)...you now have a cheese<br />
box... In Order To Call Out On This Line:You must use your Red<br />
Box tones and generate the quarter dropping in...then,you can<br />
make phone calls to people...as far as I know, this is fairly<br />
safe, and they do not check much...Although I am not sure, I<br />
think you can even make credit-card calls from a cheesebox<br />
phone and not get traced...<br />
<br />
-- Exodus --<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Gold Box Plans                                        by The Jolly Roger<br />
<br />
<br />
HOW TO BUILD IT<br />
_______________<br />
<br />
<br />
     You will need the following:<br />
<br />
Two 10K OHM and three 1.4K OHM resistors<br />
Two 2N3904 transistors<br />
Two Photo Cells<br />
Two Red LED'S (The more light produced the better)<br />
A box that will not let light in<br />
Red and Green Wire<br />
<br />
Light from the #1 LED must shine directly on the photocell #1. The gold<br />
box I made needed the top of the LED's to touch the photo cell for it to<br />
work.<br />
<br />
The same applies to the #2 photo cell and LED.<br />
<br />
          1<br />
    :-PHOTOCELL--: <br />
    :            :<br />
    :            :BASE<br />
    :    1     TTTTT<br />
    :  +LED-   TRANSISTOR              <br />
    :          TTTTT                   <br />
    :           : :                    <br />
    :  -I(--    : :COLLECTOR<br />
RED1--&lt;     &gt;:--: :-------:-----GREEN2<br />
       -I(-- :            ----------:<br />
             :                      :  <br />
        2    :-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/-/+/+/ <br />
       LED     10K    10K   1.4K 1.4K  <br />
                 RESISTORES<br />
<br />
            2<br />
       -PHOTOCELL-----------------<br />
       :                         :<br />
       :BASE                     :<br />
     TTTTT                       :<br />
     TRANSISTOR                  :<br />
     TTTTT                       :     <br />
      : :EMITTER                 :<br />
GREEN1- --------------------------RED2<br />
     :   :<br />
     /+/+/<br />
      1.4K  <br />
<br />
The 1.4K resistor is variable and if the second part of the gold box is <br />
skipped it will still work but when someone picks up the phone they will<br />
hear a faint dial tone in the background and might report it to the <br />
Gestapo er...(AT&T). <br />
1.4K will give you good reception with little risk of a Gestapo agent at <br />
your door.<br />
<br />
    <br />
Now that you have built it take two green wires of the same length and<br />
strip the ends, twist two ends together and connect them to green1 and<br />
place a piece of tape on it with "line #1" writing on it.<br />
<br />
Continue the process with red1 only use red wire. Repeat with red2 and <br />
green2 but change to line #2.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
HOW TO INSTALL<br />
______________<br />
<br />
You will need to find two phone lines that are close together. Label one of<br />
teh phone lines "Line #1". Cut the phone lines and take the outer coating<br />
off it. Tere should be 4 wires. Cut the yellow and black wires off and<br />
strip the red and green wires for both lines.<br />
<br />
Line #1 should be in two pieces. Take the green wire of one end and connect <br />
it to one of the green wires on the gold box. Take the other half of line<br />
#1 and hook the free green wire to the green wire on the phone line. Repeat<br />
the process with red1 and the other line.<br />
<br />
All you need to do now is to write down the phone numbers of the place you<br />
hooked it up at and go home and call it. You should get a dial tone!!!<br />
If not, try changing the emittor with the collector.<br />
<br />
<br />
Have a great time with this!            --------Exodus----------<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The Lunch Box                          Courtesy of Exodus<br />
<br />
Introduction<br />
===========<br />
<br />
The Lunch Box is a VERY simple transmitter which can be handy for all sorts of<br />
things. It is quite small and can easily be put in a number of places. I have<br />
successfully used it for tapping fones, getting inside info, blackmail and<br />
other such things. The possibilities are endless. I will also include the plans<br />
or an equally small receiver for your newly made toy. Use it for just about<br />
anything. You can also make the transmitter and receiver together in one box<br />
and use it as a walkie talkie.<br />
<br />
Materials you will need<br />
======================<br />
<br />
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip<br />
(1) 25-mfd, 15 volt electrolytic capacitor<br />
(2) .0047 mfd capacitors<br />
(1) .022 mfd capacitor<br />
(1) 51 pf capacitor<br />
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor<br />
(1) Transistor antenna coil<br />
(1) 2N366 transistor<br />
(1) 2N464 transistor<br />
(1) 100k resistor<br />
(1) 5.6k resistor<br />
(1) 10k resistor<br />
(1) 2meg potentiometer with SPST switch<br />
 Some good wire, solder, soldering iron, board to put it on, box (optional)<br />
<br />
Schematic for The Lunch Box<br />
===========================<br />
<br />
This may get a tad confusing but just print it out and pay attention.<br />
<br />
         [!]<br />
          !<br />
        51 pf<br />
          !<br />
       ---+----  ------------base   collector<br />
      !        )(               2N366       +----+------/&#092;/&#092;/----GND<br />
    365 pf     ()              emitter           !<br />
       !        )(                 !              !<br />
      +--------  ---+----         !              !<br />
      !             !    !        !              !<br />
     GND            /  .022mfd    !              !<br />
                 10k&#092;    !        !              !<br />
                    /   GND       +------------------------emitter<br />
                    !             !              !             2N464<br />
                    /           .0047            !          base   collector<br />
              2meg  &#092;----+        !              !   +--------+       !<br />
                    /    !       GND             !   !                !<br />
                        GND                      !   !                !<br />
        +-------------+.0047+--------------------+   !                !<br />
                                                      !   +--25mfd-----+<br />
            -----------------------------------------+   !            !<br />
       microphone                                        +--/&#092;/&#092;/-----+<br />
            ---------------------------------------------+   100k     !<br />
                                                                      !<br />
                  GND----&gt;/&lt;---------------------!+!+!+---------------+<br />
                        switch                  Battery<br />
                    from 2meg pot.<br />
<br />
<br />
Notes about the schematic<br />
=========================<br />
<br />
1.  GND means ground<br />
2.  The GND near the switch and the GND by the 2meg potentiometer should be<br />
    connected.<br />
3.  Where you see:  )(<br />
                    ()<br />
                    )( it is the transistor antenna coil with 15 turns of<br />
                       regular hook-up wire around it.<br />
4.  The middle of the loop on the left side (the left of "()") you should run<br />
    a wire down to the "+" which has nothing attached to it. There is a .0047<br />
    capacitor on the correct piece of wire.<br />
5.  For the microphone use a magnetic earphone (1k to 2k).<br />
6.  Where you see "[!]" is the antenna. Use about 8 feet of wire to broadcast<br />
    approx 300ft. Part 15 of the FCC rules and regulation says you can't<br />
    broadcast over 300 feet without a license. (Hahaha). Use more wire for an<br />
    antenna for longer distances. (Attach it to the black wire on the fone<br />
    line for about a 250 foot antenna!)<br />
<br />
Operation of the Lunch Box<br />
==========================<br />
<br />
This transmitter will send the signals over the AM radio band. You use the<br />
variable capacitor to adjust what freq. you want to use. Find a good unused<br />
freq. down at the lower end of the scale and you're set. Use the 2 meg pot. to<br />
adjust gain. Just fuck with it until you get what sounds good. The switch on<br />
the 2meg is for turning the Lunch Box on and off. When everything is adjusted,<br />
turn on an AM radio adjust it to where you think the signal is. Have a friend<br />
lay some shit thru the Box and tune in to it. That's all there is to it. The<br />
plans for a simple receiver are shown below:<br />
<br />
The Lunch Box receiver<br />
======================<br />
<br />
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip<br />
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor<br />
(1) 51 pf capacitor<br />
(1) 1N38B diode<br />
(1) Transistor antenna coil<br />
(1) 2N366 transistor<br />
(1) SPST toggle switch<br />
(1) 1k to 2k magnetic earphone<br />
<br />
Schematic for receiver<br />
======================<br />
<br />
         [!]<br />
           !<br />
        51 pf<br />
          !<br />
     +----+----+<br />
     !         !<br />
     )       365 pf<br />
     (----+    !<br />
     )    !    !<br />
     +---------+---GND<br />
          !<br />
          +---*&gt;!----base  collector-----<br />
             diode      2N366           earphone<br />
                        emitter    +-----<br />
                          !        !<br />
                         GND       !<br />
                                    -<br />
                                   +<br />
                                   - battery<br />
                                   +<br />
           GND------&gt;/&lt;------------+<br />
                  switch<br />
<br />
Closing statement<br />
=================<br />
<br />
This two devices can be built for under a total of $10.00. Not too bad. Using<br />
these devices in illegal ways is your option. If you get caught, I accept NO<br />
responsibility for your actions. This can be a lot of fun if used correctly.<br />
Hook it up to the red wire on the phone line and it will send the<br />
conversation over the air waves.<br />
<br />
Enjoy!<br />
 <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Olive Box Plans                        Courtesy of Exodus<br />
<br />
    This is a relatively new box, and all it basically does is serve as a phone<br />
ringer. You have two choices for ringers, a piezoelectric transducer (ringer),<br />
or a standard 8 ohm speaker. The speaker has a more pleasant tone to it, but<br />
either will do fine. This circuit can also be used in conjunction with a rust<br />
box to control an external something or other when the phone rings. Just connect<br />
the 8 ohm speaker output to the inputs on the rust box, and control the pot to<br />
tune it to light the light (which can be replaced by a relay for external<br />
controlling) when the phone rings.<br />
<br />
             ______________<br />
            |              |        ^<br />
       NC --|-- 5      4 --|-----/&#092;/&#092;/-------&gt;G<br />
            |              |      / R2<br />
G&lt;----)|----|-- 6      3 --|-- NC<br />
    | C3    |      U1      |<br />
     -------|-- 7      2 --|---------- --- -- - &gt; TO RINGER<br />
            |              |<br />
        ----|-- 8      1 --|--<br />
       |    |______________|  |<br />
       |                       ---/&#092;/&#092;/----|(----- L1<br />
       |                           R1      C1<br />
        ------------------------------------------ L2<br />
<br />
                  a. Main ringer TTL circuit<br />
<br />
(&gt;::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::&lt;)<br />
<br />
                                   _<br />
FROM PIN 2 &lt; - -- --- ----------| |_| |-------------&gt;G<br />
                                    P1<br />
<br />
                  b. Peizoelectric transducer<br />
<br />
(&gt;::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::&lt;)<br />
<br />
                                                      __  /|<br />
FROM PIN 2 &lt; - -- --- ---------|(---------.  .-------|  |/ |<br />
                                          &gt;||&lt;       |S1|  |<br />
                                          &gt;||&lt;     --|  |  |<br />
                                          &gt;||&lt;    |  |__|&#092; |<br />
                              G&lt;---------.&gt;||&lt;.---        &#092;|<br />
                                           T1<br />
                c. Elctro magnetic transducer<br />
Parts List<br />
----------<br />
<br />
U1 - Texas Instruments TCM1506<br />
T1 - 4000:8 ohm audio transfomer<br />
S1 - 8 ohm speaker<br />
R1 - 2.2k resistor<br />
R2 - External variable resistor; adjusts timing frequency<br />
C1 - .47uF capacitor<br />
C2 - .1uF capacitor<br />
C3 - 10uF capacitor<br />
L1 - Tip<br />
L2 - Ring<br />
     L1 and L2 are the phone line.<br />
<br />
<br />
Shift Rate:<br />
-----------<br />
<br />
  This is the formula for determining the shift rate:<br />
<br />
                   1                   1<br />
    SR = --------------------- = ------------ = 6.25 Hz<br />
         (DSR(1/f1)+DSR(1/f2))    128     128<br />
                                 ----  + ----<br />
                                 1714    1500<br />
<br />
<br />
              DSR = Shift Devider Rate ratio = 128<br />
                f1 = High Output Frequency = 1714<br />
               f2 = Low Output Frequency = 1500<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
well hows that for my first post? alright that all the ones ive got for now, depending on the peoples reactions in the poll ill post more stuff in this and other catagories-peace]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 03:12:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/43012-box-tutorials/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>List of Remaining 1AESS Offices</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42998-list-of-remaining-1aess-offices/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[This list was posted on the centraloffice Yahoo group a few days ago.  It seems to be the most current and accurate list of #1AESS switches remaining.  If you're interested in the old network, and you don't read this list, you should.<br />
<br />
<a href='http://groups.yahoo.com/group/centraloffice/message/6276' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/centraloffice/message/6276</a><br />
<br />
Phreak away!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 07 Feb 2010 20:02:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42998-list-of-remaining-1aess-offices/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>CPN or CID w.name app for blackberry?</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42995-cpn-or-cid-wname-app-for-blackberry/</link>
		<description>any one know of a CPN lookup, or CID w. name app for a blackberry so that i can see who is calling me?</description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Feb 2010 23:43:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42995-cpn-or-cid-wname-app-for-blackberry/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Free SIP providers</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42994-free-sip-providers/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Do you guys know any free SIP providers that provide free access to the PSTN. I believe FWD used to do this.<br />
That is if there are any left.<br />
What about cheap ones that provide good quality service?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 06 Feb 2010 23:01:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42994-free-sip-providers/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>phreak phactor episodes 12 and 13 - the lost episodes..</title>
		<link>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42978-phreak-phactor-episodes-12-and-13-the-lost-episodes/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[while gathering up our archives and loading up our downloads area, I have been finding some "lost" episodes and some special content here and there.  ntheory did some digging on his boxen and we were very excited to find the lost episodes 12 and 13 of phreak phactor.  Unfortunately, we discovered a problem with the m.  It turns out that while the shows were streamed, the bridge wasnt connected to the stream propley to record so it recorded several hours of silence.  It recorded the wrong input stream. :(<br />
<br />
Bottom line, they are not lost episodes, they do not exist unless someone captured the stream itself.  I have one person to check with about that, but I am skeptical at this point.  I think they are permanently gone.<br />
<br />
If anyone did record the stream and has them, this is teh time to speak up and let me know.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Feb 2010 15:30:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.binrev.com/forums/index.php/topic/42978-phreak-phactor-episodes-12-and-13-the-lost-episodes/</guid>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>